What to Cook This WeekDecember 9, 2018
Good morning. Samin Nosrat visited the Israeli chef Sarit Packer in London earlier this year, and brought home a recipe for the breakfast cereal Packer serves (above) at Honey & Co., the tiny Middle Eastern restaurant she runs with her husband, Itamar Srulovich. As Samin wrote for her “Eat” column this week, Packer’s cereal is based on a Turkish breakfast pudding called ashure, but with a better, crisper texture. Packer’s employees call the stuff “crack.” When Samin first tasted it, she ate half a bag.
Make Packer’s version of ashure today and you’ll be set for a week of morning happiness, whether you eat the cereal with yogurt or milk. It’s easy to do save for the business of acquiring ingredients, though most of them may be easily found at Middle Eastern markets and health-food stores. The outlier: ground mahaleb, from the seeds of the wild cherry tree. For that, if the market can’t provide, you may need your Internet browser.
Dinner tonight: beef and broccoli. Make enough rice to go with it so that there’s some left over to freeze. Then, one of these days, you can use it for kimchi fried rice.
Monday night, I like the idea of Ali Slagle’s new recipe for tomato-Parmesan soup. Ali pairs it with toast dusted with Parmesan. I think I’ll accompany mine with a grilled cheese sandwich.
For a Tuesday-night meal, more new Ali: her simple and very cool new recipe for skillet hot honey chicken with hearty greens. Really crisp and juicy!
On Wednesday, could you make a meal out of tempura-fried green beans and mustard dipping sauce? I got the recipe from Jimmy Bradley of the Red Cat a gajillion years ago, and you could absolutely try it. As I wrote at the time, they’re “Buffalo chicken wings for people with good art on the wall and a capacity for avoiding, as A.J. Liebling wrote, the fatal trap of abstinence.” They pair well with a Manhattan.
Thursday, I’ll keep it up with the apps-for-dinner theme, make a big bowl of crab Newburg as if I were Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, watch a few episodes of “Wild District” on Netflix, call it a night.
And then we can all of us finish off the week with a doozy: David Tanis’s luxurious new recipe for sesame-glazed duck legs with a winter fruit salad. I’m betting that’s going to be a December must-eat, going forward. So good.
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Now, check out this Ted Loos article in The Times, about the Nigerian-born artist Zina Saro-Wiwa and her video series “Table Manners,” which depicts people of the Niger Delta while they are eating. Here’s the first installment, “Felix Eats Garri & Egusi Soup,” and it’s really captivating.
Nothing to do with quail or lemon pepper, but Michael Hainey’s Springsteen profile in Esquire is worth a read for how open Springsteen was to him about mental health. It’s a good coda to the Broadway show.
Finally, a good reminder that the age of the alternative weekly newspaper isn’t over, not so long as The Stranger is published in Seattle. Here’s Daniel Villareal’s BDSM subculture mystery tale, “Death of a Kinkster,” which may disturb you, fair warning. See you tomorrow.
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